I would like to know if 16/2 cottolin is a good choice of yarn for warp? I have used 8/2 cottolin, but not the finer 16/2.
This weekend, I threaded 430 ends of 20/2 cotton on my loom in 4 shades of gray from Lunatic Fringe’s Tubular Spectrum. It’s an easy threading of plain weave with some crammed ends of 10/2 cotton to create ribs in the fabric.
When I break a warp thread during weaving, it is always the thread on the far right (no matter if it is a floating selvedge or the first thread in the draft).
I am weaving some table napkins using a diamond pattern, Periwinkle from Marguerite Davison's A Handweaver's Pattern Book, and I find that the pattern comes out face down, i.e., upside down.
When beaming warps, I understand a lot of weavers like to use water-filled recycled plastic bottles with handles as weights. Can you suggest another thing that can be used as a weight?
Lattice fringe is a fun and easy way to give your handwoven cloth some extra oomph.
I only have a 10-dent reed, so I used slightly finer warp threads and sleyed 4/dent for 4 dents and then skipped 1 dent, but the skipped dent is very obvious in the cloth. Any suggestions?
Through study and sampling Tien Chiu learned two simple rules that will help you in your own color choices.
Boredom is the catalyst of creativity and impetus of adventure. As weavers, it’s often boredom that challenges us to try a new structure or technique and to build our weaving skills.
I remember the first time I saw deflected doubleweave—it was a set of scarves woven by Madelyn and featured in the January/February 2007 issue of Handwoven.