I recently bought an old counterbalance loom. I thought one of the advantages of the counterbalance design was that they tend to give a larger shed, but I'm weaving my first project on it, and the shed seems fairly small.
I weave with a jack-type loom (rising shed). I have never found a good description of the difference between counterbalance looms, countermarch looms and a sinking-shed lack loom (Louet's David loom is described as a "sinking shed jack loom").
Here at the Weavers' School, we put on warps (mostly on Baby Wolfs) that are about 30 yd long. We could probably fit close to 40 yd warp length on these looms.
How do you translate the tie-ups in a block weave pattern to use on a table loom?
Usually, overshot is woven with a warp and tabby weft of the same size and a pattern weft that is two to three times heavier/thicker than the warp and tabby weft.
If you weave a sample at 10" width and then weave the fabric at 30" width, you are going to have to up the acceleration to get the same weft density. In cases where you are trying for a dense weft sett, sometimes this can't be done.
I have a 4-shaft Nilus Leclerc loom. My current warp is 23" wide and I am having trouble with the sheds. I have to work to get the shuttle through them.
Is there a mathematical formula to use when you are changing the sett of a warp that has already been sleyed in the reed?
What is the best yarn to use as a spacer for ladder hemstitching? And how do you make sure you don't catch it with the needle while you're working?