I've heard of something called a dummy warp, where some inexpensive yarn is tied to the apron rod and then the real warp is tied to that, so that the cheap yarn becomes the loom waste.
An end-feed shuttle operates with a pirn instead of a rotating bobbin. The problem with a rotating bobbin is that when the bobbin is full, it rotates fewer times than when it is empty to unload the same length of yarn.
Madelyn explains how to set yourself up for success when weaving doublewidth doubleweave on a jack loom.
With twisty yarns or when you have several ends in a dent, you want to maintain the exact order of the threads from warping board to heddle.
I just wound a linen warp of 35/2 linen and the threads were quite twisted as I sleyed, threaded, and beamed the warp. What was I doing wrong?
I'd like to weave a baby blanket but all of the patterns I've looked at are wider than my loom. Would this be an opportunity to try doubleweave?
How do you rewrite a complicated draft so it's readable for weaving on a table loom? Madelyn has a few suggestions to make your life so much easier.
First of all, whenever you cross a space-dyed warp with a weft (whether solid or space-dyed itself), if the weft shows at all, it will interrupt the stretches of solid color in the warp.
Is there anything wrong with putting on one warp, and using it to weave many different things?
If I want to weave a structure such as overshot, summer and winter, or a lace weave double wide for a tablecloth, what problems can I expect? I have just given away my large floor loom and will be using a 36” table loom for this.
