The beautiful Shimmering Water Scarf by Annette Swan Schipf in the Spring 2026 issue of Handwoven uses a widely available fine metallic embroidery thread in the warp alongside ends of Tencel. (We should note that while the thread is shiny and looks metallic, it’s actually made of a thin strand of plastic.)
This project, shown below, prompted a few questions from readers about working with tricky threads.
The Shimmering Water Scarf by Annette Swan Schipf. Photo by Matt Graves
The Tricky Threads Q&A
Is a fine metallic thread like this strong enough to stand up to warp tension? On its own in a warp, probably not. Fortunately, in the Shimmering Water Scarf it’s always paired with an end of Tencel, which can handle that warp tension—and the combination protects the metallic thread from snapping.
Are metallic threads or other very fine yarns difficult to use in a warp? It’s hard to make a broad generalization, but some of them can be a challenge! The problems can be related to their size, their physical makeup (think static cling), or even the diameter of the spool they’re supplied on (which some threads seem to remember after they’re unspooled).
Our advice for working with a very fine thread, metallic or otherwise? Start by unwinding a few feet of it and take a look. If it curls up readily, or if it’s very slippery and wants to slide off the spool in a big pile, you should focus extra attention on keeping it under control at all times.
What can I do to keep misbehaving thread under control while warping? The best approach is to keep it under tension as much as possible. This means keeping it snug, but not stretched to the verge of snapping.
The following tactics will help—be sure you have a roll of painter’s tape handy! (We’ll refer to metallic ends here, but the same principles apply to any active yarn that needs extra attention.)
Some weavers have success keeping very slippery yarns from falling off cones or spools by putting them into yarn bras or net spool savers. (Search online for those phrases to find options.)
To keep a small spool from spinning around the room as you warp, place it on a dowel suspended in a milk crate, and thread the working end up and out of the crate for winding.
Tape the metallic end in place at the beginning of each bout on your warping board or wheel, and keep the yarn tensioned. If you need to step away, tape the working end to the nearest peg (always with tension).
If you’d rather wind while holding the spool in your hand, add a piece of tape to the thread coming off the spool whenever you need to set the spool down (and tape the other end to the warping board or wheel to keep it tensioned).
If you’re winding a striped warp, you may be in the habit of putting inactive ends on hold. Don't try that with metallic threads that are prone to curl and tangle—if you need to suspend winding those for any reason, tape them to a peg to keep them under tension until you can continue.
Tape the metallic end to the ending peg when you finish winding the warp.
Add more choke ties than usual before you move the full warp to the loom.
As you sley and thread your loom, use tape as needed to keep those ends in place right up until you’ve finished tying or lashing on.
Are there fine metallic yarns that are meant for weaving? Here are several options from weaver-friendly sources. Be sure you unwind a bit to see how they behave off the cone or tube, and follow the suggestions above if needed.
Lofty Fiber offers Bling, a fine metallic yarn from Maurice Brassard, which they suggest for use in the warp when paired with a stronger fiber.
ScarlettPines also sells Bling.
Lunatic Fringe Yarns sells a fine opalescent yarn and a fine metallic yarn.
Hobbii carries Glitter Deluxe, which is supplied on cones. Hobbii does recommend using a yarn holder to keep the cones in check.
MORE ABOUT FINE YARNS: Madelyn van der Hoogt has good advice for using fine silk in a warp.
Have you woven with fine metallic yarns? Please tell us about your experience!