I would like to know if 16/2 cottolin is a good choice of yarn for warp? I have used 8/2 cottolin, but not the finer 16/2.
When I break a warp thread during weaving, it is always the thread on the far right (no matter if it is a floating selvedge or the first thread in the draft).
What can I substitute for 10/2 unmercerized cotton? Madelyn has the answers!
I am weaving some table napkins using a diamond pattern, Periwinkle from Marguerite Davison's A Handweaver's Pattern Book, and I find that the pattern comes out face down, i.e., upside down.
When beaming warps, I understand a lot of weavers like to use water-filled recycled plastic bottles with handles as weights. Can you suggest another thing that can be used as a weight?
I only have a 10-dent reed, so I used slightly finer warp threads and sleyed 4/dent for 4 dents and then skipped 1 dent, but the skipped dent is very obvious in the cloth. Any suggestions?
How much extra warp should I allow in order to retie the remaining warp? I'm using silk yarn so I don't want much warp waste.
What's the cause of smiling selvedges and how do you fix them? Madelyn has the answers!
When to is the best time to count PPI, under tension or with slack tension?