For weft threads that interlace less often than in a balanced plain weave, the weft angle will need to be less steep. Experiment, following the steps outlined here until you find the angle that works.
I read the patterns for a project and one of the things that confuses me is, say you have a 12-dent reed and you are told to put two ends in a dent to make it 24 ends. Now what do you do with these when it comes to putting them through the heddles?
I have a question about an issue that is being discussed in my guild. Should you leave the lease sticks in the warp, behind the shafts, after you have finished threading?
I am new to this grand weaving adventure! However, I can not find any videos or good instructions about warping my sectional beam. Help!
I am planning a project from Handwoven's Design Collection 19. Instead of the 10/2 Tencel specified, I ordered 8/2 Tencel. Can I use this in place of the 10/2 and should I change the sett from 2 per dent in 12- dent reed to another reed or sleying order?
Generally, there are three basic methods of warping: from the front, from the back, and sectional. The labels "from the front" and "from the back" are determined by the threading direction.
I can see where I have advanced my warp because the weaving density of the cloth is different after I’ve advanced. Is this a warp tension issue?
I warp from front to back. I have found that no matter what I do, my warp ends are at different lengths once they are threaded through the heddles. If I have a fairly wide warp, I usually wind more than one chain.
What is the proper way to deal with changing weft color? Does one break and restart or carry the yarn up the edges?
I’m looking at some wool yarn on eBay. They give the weight of the mystery yarn as 12 wraps per inch. I’ve asked the owner if they know how many yards per pound it is, but they don’t know. Can you point me in the right direction?
