The most important principle about irregular sleying orders is to spread the threads as evenly as possible throughout the reed.
I read in Allen Fannin's book about how best to wind a bobbin. I started winding bobbins that way and my selvages are better.
I wove a scarf with rayon chenille warp and a silk/cotton weft. Now I have a chenille fringe that is raveling away. What would be the best way to avoid a "bare" fringe for this scarf?
How can you weave a project that calls for 7 treadles using a loom with only 6 treadles? Try changing your tie-up.
Is there anything I should be aware of when it comes to deflected doubleweave patterns using a wool that will full quite a bit after it is washed?
I would really like to see a discussion of the best way to translate an American weaving draft into a Swedish draft. The conventions are so different, I get brain freeze trying to do it myself!
Should hemming, fringe twisting, etc. for woven pieces be done before or after wet-finishing them?
I am a beginning weaver (actually, a beginning-again weaver) and need help with yarn substitutions. I am using an older pattern from Handwoven, November/December 1996, “Man’s Scarf in Silk and Cotton.” It calls for 12/2 silk at 2,790 yd/lb.
I grouped these three questions together because they all involve the same kind of reasoning and knowledge related to designing around yarn. The first important step to take is to download the Master Yarn Chart.
Madelyn gives a clever trick for dealing with changing weft colors multiple times throughout a weaving.
