Many weavers turn to inkle weaving or kumihimo to make coordinating hanging tabs or straps for their projects. For those who want to finish their handwovens with something more extravagant, there’s passementerie—tassels, ribbons, and decorative cording.
Two skilled passementerie artists, Jessica Light and Elizabeth Ashdown, have written books on the subject aimed at weavers. Both books cover similar topics: the history of passementerie, its use in the past and the modern day, different styles of trims and tassels, and ideas for creating original designs. While both provide clear guidance for the beginner, the two books seem intended for different types of readers.
Jessica Light uses traditional materials and tools, and she provides clear written instructions for creating trims in her book (left). Elizabeth Ashdown’s samples use brightly colored and unconventional materials along with step-by-step photos showing how the samples were made (right). Images courtesy of Crowood Press (left) and Schiffer Craft (right)
For the Traditionalist
As one of the most renowned passementerie weavers in the United Kingdom, Jessica Light has made a career of creating embellishments for historic buildings and high fashion alike. While she is known for her modern interpretations of traditional styles, the pieces in her book feel deeply rooted in history, and many would not look out of place in a museum, a historic home, or a Gilded Age fashion exhibit. Her playful touch can be seen in the way she works with textures, even while using subdued color palettes and traditional yarns...
For the More Avant-Garde
If you’re looking for a less traditional exploration of passementerie, or you feel faint at the idea of tying up your floor loom with ribbons and gimps, Elizabeth Ashdown’s approach might be more to your liking. It’s full of pieces featuring bright colors, unusual textures, and nontraditional materials that all feel quite modern...
Read the full review, and find project instructions for weaving Elizabeth Ashdown’s Dip-Dyed Shetland Fringe, shown here, in the Winter 2025 issue of Handwoven.
About the Books
Passementerie: Handcrafting Contemporary Trimmings, Fringes, Tassels, and More, by Elizabeth Ashdown
Atglen, PA: Schiffer Craft, 2024. Hardcover, 160 pages, $39.99. ISBN 978-0764367182.
Passementerie: Woven and Non-Woven Techniques for Making Trims and Tassels, by Jessica Light
Marlborough, Wiltshire, UK: Crowood Press, 2025. Softcover, 160 pages, $29.99. ISBN 978-0719844492.