If you spend any time at all looking at weaving drafts, chances are you’ll see some twills. Designers love the structure because it provides an astounding array of pattern options (even on four shafts), and it makes fabric with a nice drape. Read on!
About the Structure
Twill requires at least three warp threads and three weft threads. Each warp thread passes over or under more than one weft thread, each weft thread passes over or under more than one warp thread, and each weft pick moves one warp end sideways, resulting in a diagonal fabric. Twills are generally woven at a slightly tighter sett in both warp and weft than plain weave.
A balanced twill is one where the number of shafts raised and lowered on each pick is equal (such as in 2/2 or 3/3 twill). Equal amounts of warp and weft show on both faces of a balanced twill fabric.
An unbalanced twill is one where the warp and weft ratios are unequal (such as in 3/1 or 1/4 twill). One face of an unbalanced twill fabric will show an emphasis on the warp; the other face will have an emphasis on the weft. These twills are also called warp- or weft-dominant, or warp- or weft-faced.
A Sampling of Twills
Here’s a visual guide to common twills, with links to projects using each structure. Treadlings described here are generally based on standard twill tie-ups, but you should use the actual tie-up and treadling included in any project you wish to make.
Straight twill
• Characterized by uninterrupted diagonal parallel lines across the fabric. Can be woven as balanced or unbalanced.
• The diagonal lines on the other side of the fabric will face in the opposite direction.
• Threaded and treadled straight: 1, 2, 3, 4.
• May also be called regular, biased, diagonal, direct, continuous, simple, basic, or plain twill.
Above: Nancy Dunlap’s Dunlap Tartan Stole. Photo by George Boe
Reverse twill
• A straight twill where the treadling reverses, or “turns,” to form points or zigzags (visible in the cream and orange bands shown above).
• Note that the colors continue at the reversing points.
• Threaded straight: 1, 2, 3, 4; treadled to a point: 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 1.
• May be called wave, horizontal herringbone, zigzag, or point twill.
Above: Merriel Miller’s Travel Tote. Photo by Matt Graves
Herringbone twill
• A repeating zigzag pattern that resembles the spine of a fish.
• Note that the colors are offset at the pattern points.
• Threaded to a point (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 1); treadled straight (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4).
• May be called point, chevron, or vertical herringbone twill.
Above: Rachel Simmon’s Adventurer’s Sling Bag. Photo by Matt Graves
Diamond twill
• A combination of a point twill threading and a reverse twill treadling, which creates motifs that are nested together on a diagonal.
• Threaded and treadled to a point: 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 1.
• May be called goose-eye or bird’s-eye twill.
Above: Alison Irwin’s Chenille Neck Cozy. Photo by Matt Graves
Skip twill
• A straight twill where the twill threading line is interrupted and then resumes.
• Threaded with an interruption (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 1, 4, 5, 6, etc.); treadled straight (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4).
• May be called offset, interrupted, or advancing twill.
Above: Judy Stewart’s Natural Elegance Scarf. Photo by Matt Graves
Broken twill
• Most commonly, staggered reversals of diagonals. They can also have a diagonal direction that is no longer than two picks, so that no diagonal line develops.
• Threaded with staggered reversals (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 2, 4, 3, 2, 1, etc.); treadled straight (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4)
• May be called dornik, herringbone, or broken point twill.
Above: Mary Frost’s Twill Towels. Photo by Joe Coca
Turned twill
• Blocks of warp-predominant and weft-predominant twill sitting side by side.
• Threading and treadling are both straight draw. Block effects are produced by tie-ups.
• May be called twill blocks, twill damask, dimity, or twill diaper.
Above: Alice Schlein’s Turned Twill Towels; correction here. Photo by Joe Coca
Undulating twill
• Curved twill lines created by irregular sleying, variations in yarn thicknesses, repeated ends in warp or weft, or irregular offsetting in the threading or treadling. The sample above alternates darker bands of undulating twill and lighter bands of point twill.
• Threading, e.g.: 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8; treadling is straight.
• May be called wavy twill.
Above: Nancy Dunlap’s Fusion Sparkle Shawl. Photo by Joe Coca
Keep Going with Twills
The guide above is just a taste—it doesn’t include all possible twills. A few more twill types you may run across include:
Fancy twill, a general term for a variety of twill weaves that may be combinations of simple twills, irregular patterning, diaper, or twill damask.
Manifold twills, which combine and interleave two separate twills.
Plaited twills, which interlace opposing diagonal lines, creating a braided effect in the fabric.
Some of these twills can be woven on four shafts, while others require eight shafts or more.
For more more about twills, take a look at the Best of Handwoven, Technique Series: Twills on Four Shafts eBook, which has ten projects using a range of twills: advancing, undulating, simple, bird's eye, dornick, twill blocks, and more.
Or take the Totally Twill video courses with Robin Spady to learn how to mix and match twill threadings, tie-ups, and treadlings to create a profusion of patterns.
Published Jan. 22, 2019; updated March 30, 2026.